My recent trip to New Orleans on Nov 5-9th, 2013 for a CME conference was way to short to see everything. The presentations at the conference didn't end until 5pm, so my roaming of New Orleans (NO) was mostly "in the dark", i.e. at night.
I stayed at the Marriott on Causeway, about 15 minutes by freeway from downtown. I would recommend staying away from downtown due to the price of the hotels. Unless money is not an object. Well actually it is, but I digress.
To make sense of what one sees today in New Orleans, it is essential to dive into a little history, if I may;
New Orleans was founded by the French in 1718 and the city was named for Philippe d'Orleans, the Duke of Orléans, where Orleans is a region in France.
It came under Spanish rule in 1763 due to the Treaty of Versailles, for 39 years, until 1801, when it came under the French again. But this time for only 2 years, after which it was purchased by the U.S.
Around the French Quarter one can see plaques that depicts the Spanish colonization;
This sign is in front of Jackson Square.
The city then belonged to the U.S. after the Louisiana Purchase in 1803, having been purchased from Napoleon.
One of the longest standing establishment in NO is Café du Monde (pronounced ca-fe do mond; the "e" is silent).
It sits at the end of the former French Market; on Decatur street.
Cafe du Monde is very popular to tourists. It is very busy on most times of the day. There's even a separate "take out" line; and there's usually a line. One of the two times I went there the wait was about 5-10 minutes on the take out line, as they serve rather fast. Cafe du Monde is known for 2 two things; beignets and coffee.
Beignets are deep fried of flour called choux paste, pâte à choux. Named after a pâtissier Avice in 8th century France for his Avice's buns, which resembled cabbage (choux). The concept was brought over by the French in 18th century. The coffee, also of the same name, is served concurrently. It is worth sitting down, if you can find an empty table, and enjoy a sip and a bite before leaving NO. For those that wants to bring that taste of coffee home they also sell the coffee there or other stores along Decatur st.
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Not far from Café du Monde is Jackson Square, and behind it is the St. Louis Cathedral (below).
Jackson Square (in 8th century was called Place d'Armes). The square is named after Andrew Jackson, a hero of the Battle of New Orleans, Jan 1815, the final major battle of the War of 1812 between the U.S and Britain.
The statue of the horseman in the center of the square is none other than Andrew Jackson.
"Hi-yo Silver, Away!"
oh, wait, that's in the Lone Ranger. The statue was placed there by Andrew Jackson himself in January 1840, 25 yrs after his battle.
The Cathedral-Basilica of St. Louis, King of France, is the oldest cathedral in the United States in continual use. Dedicated for Louis IX, a sainted king of France, the initial church was built in the 1720's by French engineer Adrien de Pauger, who is also buried underneath the church, among many other prominent figures of those times. Talk about creepy.
In March 1788 the church was burned to the ground and the current cathedral was rebuilt under wealthy Don Andre Almonester y Roxas of Andalusia.
Below; the gate by lamplight in front of Jackson Square;
The Calbido (below); Louisiana state history museum, sits to the left of the Cathedral. It became a museum in 1908. the name "Calbido" comes from the governing body "Illustrious Calbido", or city council.
Built in 1795-1799 during Spanish rule as a municipal government of Spain, it served as a city hall (1803-1853), a courthouse, and a prison.
It was also here that the Louisiana Purchase was conducted in 1803.
To the right of the Cathedral: The Presbytère; (below) currently the Art Museum, designed in 1791 to match the Calbido. Originally called the Casa Curial (Ecclesiastial house).
It's name is derived from the fact that the grounds used to be that of Capuchin monks' residence (presbytere).
1813; 2nd floor completed during the housing of the Wardens of the cathedral.
1834; served as a courthouse
1911; became the Louisiana State Museum.
While walking along Decauter St I stumbled upon an information/tourist establishment that has to any-types-of-tour-you-can-imagine tourist trap. I decided to take a picture of this alligator head instead (below). Although if I had time a tour of the plantation would be interesting.
Below: the French market.
Joan of Arc golden bronze statue; A gift by France to New Orleans in 1959 delivered by Charles de Gualle. Due to lack of budget to place it anywhere it was in storage for 8 years.
It was placed in International Market at the end of Canal street until 1999, whereby it was then moved to it's current location (near French Market on Decauter st) when Harrah's casino was built.
This statue is an exact copy of 1874 Emmanuel Fremiet's Joan of Arc at Place des Pyramides, France.
Apparently there's a parade (Krewe de Jeanne d'Arc parade) yearly to celebrate Joan of Arc's birthday on Jan 6 that ends here at the statue. Another reason to celebrate with beads and alcohol.
What's the relationship with Joan and New Orleans? Well since you asked, in France during the Hundred years War between France and Britain, France was to loose if the city of Orléans, located in the Loire River central France, was to fall (the siege of Orléans) to the British. Joan of Arc came to save the city from British conquer.
Below; Burbon St. by lamplight.
Below, statues of musical legends at New Orleans Musical Legends Park, right on Bourbon St.
Below; the entrance of Pat Obrien's; known for the creation of the drink in a hurricane lamp; a mixture of sweet fruit juices and rum. In the 1940's there was a short supply of whiskey and bourbon, but rum was plentiful. In order to buy a case of whiskey one must buy 50 cases of rum. With the plentiful rum the establishment came up with the hurricane drink that is popular to this day.
There's also the dueling piano in the piano lounge. So while sipping the hurricane you can also dance to the music, while drunk of course.
Scenes of French Quarter by night
Below, covered street of French Market at night, the end of which sits Cafe du Monde. This market of 6 blocks in length was first used as a meat market, and prior to that a Native American trading post that began in 1791. It was the only place that could sell meat, until after the civil war.
1850s; name changed from Halles de Boucheries, the meat market, to French market, to establish prominence as other markets sprung up.
The original structures were destroyed by hurricanes, but the present buildings were built since 1813.
Here's how the French Market looked in 1910.
Horse head on Bourbon Street. There are cast iron post of horse head, which were hitching posts for horses back in the days. They used to have iron rings around the mouth for the rope.
Below; The inside wall mural of Red Fish Grill; another popular restaurant on Bourbon St. This one was packed when I entered. And I did try their signature hickory grilled red fish ($30). It was unfortunately nothing to die for, except the price, or it could just be me, with my hypersensitive culinary palate. To their credit they do use hickory wood burning grill. There's also the chocolate bread pudding, which I didn't try, cause it's a seafood restaurant.
Below; the wall of Red Fish Grill restaurant, decorated in pearls and shells, with liquor bottles below, of course.
